Gabber, gabba, Rotterdam techno, Rotterdam hardcore or retrospectively called early hardcore, is a style of electronic music and a subgenre of hardcore.
The style is derived from the acid house and techno house styles from the late 1980s, but many within the core scene claim that it was diluted by 1995, mainly because of a
mainstream variant called happy hardcore and, for hardcore fans, be- cause of commercialization which resulted in a younger crowd being attracted to the scene. The commercial organization ID&T
helped to make the music popular by organizing parties (most nota- ble are the Thunderdome parties) and selling merchandise. The name “gabber” is used somewhat less currently to describe this music style, especially due to the stigma created in the mid 1990s.
Early hardcore is characterized by its bass drum sound. Essentially, it comes from taking a normal synthesized bass drum and over-driving it heavily. The approximately sinusoidal sample starts to clip into a square wave with a falling pitch. This results in a number of effects: the frequency spectrum spreads out, thus achieving a louder, more aggressive sound. It also changes the amplitude envelope of the sound by increasing the sustain. Due to the distortion, the drum also develops a melodic tone. It is not uncommon for the bass drum pat- tern to change pitch
throughout the song to follow the bass line.
(a project for Romeo Gigli & Claudia Nesi)
Bibiana Álvarez, Lidiya Suteva, Wanjing Li Begonia, Huang Jo-Wei Sunny: …we invented a personage, we gave her a date of birth and wrote about her life.
We made her clothing .
Personage : Irina Nicolaevna
Born: 1890, Moscow, Russia
Family: Aristocratic Russian family (her father has a high position in the Russian army, before the revolution; her husband had a high position in the army, he was loyal to the Tsar, he was killed during the World War I; her mother was from an old aristocratic family; her brother however had liberal opinions and attitudes; she had a child.
Character: duality of mind and versatility; ability to see both sides of the same coin; elegance; the mistakes of youth; happiness, self-centeredness, imagination and restlessness like children. She considered life as a game; looking for fun and new situations. Sometimes she used her attributes to achieve her own goals; she is able to resort to lies without losing her charm just to get what she wants; she gets discouraged easily (such as children when they do not get what they want); she likes to receive attention, gifts and compliments.
Before the revolution she was leading a typical life of a woman from the Russian aristocracy, but also she was interested in the contemporary tendencies in the arts, she has close relationships with some of the Russian artists and poets (poetesses) of the time before the revolution. However after the revolution her life changed dramatically. She lost her position, her fortune, her husband. She was forced to hide and then change her identity (pretending that she is an ordinary woman without aristocratic background) in order to save her life and her child’s life.
( a project for Manuela Porta)
Clothing as a sign must fit a given situation. If the person does not fit in it, it may be excluded from it. In a society that constantly judges, people are observed on if they fit or not to the established guidelines. Identity, as in social sciences, is the compression and the expression of each person about their individuality and about their membership, or not, to a certain groups. Fashion has always been a key tool that provides differentiation and helps the construction of identity. For an image to be effective it must reflect a dignified identity.
But we should question ourselves what is really decent and proper in fashion.
Within a few aesthetic guidelines as to dress well, I might consider my father as the contrary inspiration. He is a person who values comfort and economics above of any trends. His closet is composed and based on advertising t-shirts and polo shirts that are given in promotions and events. From a practical and functional point of view, really, what else do we need?
Therefore I wanted to make a simple garment that shows his outfits. His style and philosophy of life is advertised by a t-shirt.
This project should and could be expanded. If everyone have their way of dressing and their way of belonging by identification, it would be interesting to analyse and synthesise their basic outfits to create different designs and garments.
(A project for Stefania Seoni)